In the vast and untouched wilderness of Bhutan, where ancient forests stretch endlessly towards the heavens and mist-shrouded peaks rise like sentinels from the earth, there lies a place of profound mystery—a place where time itself seems to stand still. The Black Mountain, or Durshingla as it is known to the locals, is not merely a mountain range; it is a realm of legend, a fortress of nature, where the boundaries between reality and the mythical blur. For one man, this mountain became the focus of an unrelenting quest, an adventure that spanned years, fueled by a deep-rooted dream to unveil the secrets hidden within its dark folds. This is the tale of that journey—a saga of perseverance, discovery, and the indomitable human spirit.
The Birth of a Dream
Dreams have a peculiar way of choosing their dreamers. They seep into the subconscious, taking root in the fertile soil of imagination, growing with every passing day until they become impossible to ignore. For our adventurer Dorji Duba, the dream of conquering the Black Mountain began as a whisper, a faint calling from the heart of Bhutan’s wilderness. It was a dream born not of ambition, but of a deep-seated connection to the land, a desire to explore the uncharted and to understand the mysteries that nature so carefully guards.
The year was 2012 when he first set foot in Phobjika, a remote valley cradled within the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. His new assignment at the Khebithang Nature Study Centre was meant to be just another chapter in his career as a conservationist, but for him, it marked the beginning of an epic odyssey. From the moment he arrived, the Black Mountain loomed on the horizon, its jagged peaks etched against the sky, a constant reminder of the unknown that lay beyond.
While others might have been content with their duties, he found himself restless, his thoughts always drifting towards the mountain. Every day he would gaze at the distant peaks, their tops often obscured by clouds, and imagine the wild, untouched world that lay within. It was a land of dense forests, hidden lakes, and ancient secrets—an explorer’s dream, and he was determined to make it his reality.
The First Foray: Into the Shadow of the Mountain
The opportunity to venture into the Black Mountain came unexpectedly in May 2013, when he was invited to join Dr. Tshering Tempa, a renowned conservation researcher, on a field study deep within the park. It was a study focused on the delicate balance between predator and prey, but for him, it was the first real chance to step into the unknown. As they embarked on their journey, he felt a thrill of anticipation coursing through his veins. The Black Mountain, which had been a distant silhouette for so long, was now within his grasp.
Their path took them to Jaributsha, a remote settlement on the fringes of civilization, where the earth itself seemed to hold its breath in anticipation of their passage. Here, they encountered App Dawa Gatshey, an old yak herder with a weather-beaten face that told stories of a life spent in the mountains. Despite having roamed these lands for three decades, the herder had never seen anyone venture so far into the wilderness. His amazement was palpable, and it only fueled the adventurer’s resolve to push further into the heart of the Black Mountain.
As they trekked deeper, the landscape transformed into a world untouched by time. Towering trees, their branches heavy with moss, formed a natural cathedral, the sunlight filtering through in dappled rays. The air was thick with the scent of earth and vegetation, a heady mixture that spoke of life in its most primal form. But as they ascended, the terrain became more challenging—steeper, rockier, and more treacherous. The mountain seemed to be testing them, probing their resolve, daring them to continue.
The journey was not without its hardships. At one point, they were forced to make tea from stagnant water, the taste of clay soil clinging to their tongues, a reminder of the ruggedness of the land they sought to explore. Yet despite these challenges, they pressed on, installing camera traps in the hopes of capturing glimpses of the elusive wildlife that called this remote wilderness home. But the Black Mountain itself remained just out of reach, its highest peaks hidden behind a veil of clouds.
The Door to Another World: Dungshing Gho
It would take several more expeditions before our adventurer would come face to face with one of the Black Mountain’s most intriguing secrets. In August 2013, he set out once more, this time with the company of Mr. Jamtsho, a fellow ranger from the park. Their goal was simple—to delve deeper into the mountain’s mysteries and uncover the paths that had eluded them on previous journeys.
After days of grueling trekking, they found themselves at a place known as Dungshing Gho, or “the door.” It was here, in the shadow of the mountain, that they encountered a sight unlike any other—a massive hole carved through the rock, large enough to swallow a truck. This was no ordinary passage; it was a portal, a gateway between two worlds. As they stepped through, they crossed from Trongsa into Wangduephodrang, entering a realm where the land seemed to shift and change with every step.
The ground beneath them was unstable, sliding away as they moved forward, but they pressed on, driven by the knowledge that they were among the first to set foot in this unexplored territory. It was a place where nature reigned supreme, where every rock, every tree, seemed to hold a secret of its own. And then, as if by magic, they stumbled upon Sertsho—a hidden lake, its waters shimmering in the pale light, untouched by human hands for over half a century. The sight of it brought their guide, the old yak herder, to his knees in reverence. It was as if they had stepped into a forgotten world, a place where the past and present coexisted in perfect harmony.
But even this extraordinary discovery was not the culmination of their journey. The peak of the Black Mountain still loomed in the distance, a silent challenge that beckoned them onward. Each step took them closer, but the mountain was not yet ready to surrender its secrets.
The Unyielding Guardian: The Peak of the Black Mountain
For the next three years, our adventurer made several more attempts to reach the summit of the Black Mountain. Each expedition brought him closer, but the mountain was a formidable adversary. The weather was often against them, with torrential rains turning the trails into rivers and the rocks into slick, treacherous obstacles. The altitude sapped their strength, and the dense undergrowth slowed their progress to a crawl. But with every setback, his determination grew stronger.
In June 2017, he set out on what would be his final attempt to conquer the mountain. This time, he was accompanied by a team of young, energetic rangers, all of whom shared his passion for exploration. Their journey was one of perseverance and endurance—five days of relentless trekking through some of the most challenging terrain they had ever encountered. The rain fell in sheets, drenching them to the bone, but they pressed on, driven by the knowledge that they were on the cusp of achieving something extraordinary.
As they ascended the final stretch of the mountain, the clouds parted, revealing the peak in all its rugged glory. It was a place where few had ever set foot, a world of stone and sky, where the only sound was the wind howling through the crags. When they finally reached the summit, the view took their breath away. Below them, the vast expanse of the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park stretched out like a living map, a testament to the untamed beauty of Bhutan’s wilderness.
The Treasure Revealed
Reaching the summit was not just a personal triumph—it was a victory for conservation. The camera traps they had set up along the way revealed something extraordinary: the Black Mountain was one of the few places on Earth where the habitats of the elusive snow leopard and the majestic tiger overlapped. This discovery was nothing short of groundbreaking, providing vital information that would help guide future conservation efforts in the region.
But the mountain had more secrets to reveal. As they descended, they discovered new species of flora and fauna, each one a testament to the rich biodiversity that thrived in this remote wilderness. The Black Mountain was no longer just a place on a map; it was a living, breathing ecosystem, teeming with life and waiting to be understood.
For our adventurer, this was the culmination of years of hard work and dedication. He had finally achieved his dream of exploring the Black Mountain, uncovering its secrets and contributing to the preservation of its unique ecosystem. The mountain, once a distant and unattainable goal, was now a place of knowledge and understanding—a symbol of the enduring power of nature and the importance of protecting it.
A Legacy of Exploration and Conservation
As he stood on the summit of the Black Mountain, gazing out over the vast wilderness below, our adventurer knew that his journey was far from over. The Black Mountain had revealed many of its secrets, but there were still countless more waiting to be discovered. The journey had been long and arduous, filled with challenges and setbacks, but it had also been one of the most rewarding experiences of his life.
The Black Mountain was no longer a mystery, but a legacy—a testament to the power of dreams and the importance of conservation. It was a place where the past and present coexisted, where the ancient secrets of the earth were waiting to be uncovered by those brave enough to seek them out. For our adventurer, it was a journey that had transformed him, deepening his connection to the land and his commitment to protecting it.
The Adventure Continues
Today, the Black Mountain stands as a beacon of hope and inspiration, a reminder that there are still places on this planet that remain untouched and unexplored. For those willing to venture into the unknown, there are discoveries waiting to be made, stories waiting to be told, and mysteries waiting to be unraveled.
And for our adventurer, the journey is far from over. The Black Mountain may have revealed some of its secrets, but there are still countless more waiting to be discovered. As he packs his gear and prepares for his next expedition, he knows that the adventure has only just begun. For in the heart of the Black Mountain, where the wild things grow and the spirit of nature reigns supreme, there is always more to explore, more to learn, and more to protect.
The call of the wild is a powerful thing, and for those who hear it, there is no turning back.
