Bhutan Travel Story of Craig and Jeane’s 2012 Journey

This blog is part of several Bhutan Travel Stories that we will be putting up for prospective travellers to read.

Bhutan has long captivated the imaginations of millions of travelers seeking a truly unique experience. Often referred to as the “Last Shangri-La,” Bhutan offers a journey through time, where ancient traditions meet breathtaking landscapes, and where the concept of happiness is taken seriously. In this Bhutan travel story, we’ll revel at Craig and Jeane’s 2012 adventure, reflecting on their experience and how Bhutan travel has evolved since then. Whether you’re dreaming of your own Bhutan travel experience or simply curious about this hidden gem, join us as we explore the enchanting world of Bhutan.

Bhutan Travel Story Set in 2012

Back in 2012, Bhutan was still a relatively undiscovered destination, known only to a select group of intrepid travelers. With its carefully managed tourism policies, Bhutan had managed to keep mass tourism at bay. This has helped preserve its pristine landscapes and rich cultural heritage. Craig and Jeane, seasoned travelers with a penchant for exploring Asia, had long been intrigued by Bhutan. The country’s unique approach to development, guided by the philosophy of Gross National Happiness (GNH), only added to its allure.

Their journey was meticulously planned, adhering to Bhutan’s “High Value, Low Impact” tourism policy. This policy, which remains in place today, requires visitors to book their trips through licensed Bhutanese tour operators, pay a daily tariff, and be accompanied by a guide throughout their stay. While this might sound restrictive, it’s part of what makes a Bhutan travel experience so special—ensuring that tourism supports the local economy and helps preserve Bhutan’s environment and culture.

The Adventure Begins > Arrival in Paro

Craig and Jeane’s Bhutan travel story begins with one of the most breathtaking landings in the world. As their Druk Air flight descended into Paro, the only international airport in Bhutan, they were treated to stunning views of snow-capped peaks and lush valleys. The narrow, winding approach to Paro Airport is notorious for its challenge, requiring pilots to navigate between towering mountains before touching down on a runway that seems almost too small for the task. For Craig and Jeane, this dramatic arrival was the perfect introduction to the adventure that lay ahead.

Paro, a small town with a rich history, was their first stop. Here, they visited the National Museum, housed in a watchtower overlooking the Paro Dzong, a fortress-monastery that dates back to the 17th century. The museum offered a fascinating glimpse into Bhutanese culture, with displays of ancient armor, thangka paintings, and traditional textiles. The Paro Dzong itself, with its whitewashed walls and intricately painted wooden beams, stood as a testament to Bhutan’s architectural heritage.

Thimphu > The Heart of Bhutanese Culture

From Paro, Craig and Jeane traveled to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital city. Unlike any capital they had visited before, Thimphu was a blend of old and new, where traditional Bhutanese architecture coexisted with modern buildings. The city was bustling with activity, yet it retained a sense of tranquility that is hard to find in most urban centers.

In Thimphu, Craig and Jeane explored the Tashichho Dzong, the seat of Bhutan’s government and the summer residence of the monastic body. They also visited the Folk Heritage Museum, which offered an immersive experience of rural Bhutanese life, complete with a replica of a traditional farmhouse. The museum was a highlight for Jeane, who marveled at the simplicity and ingenuity of Bhutanese domestic architecture.

But it wasn’t all history and culture. Thimphu also gave Craig and Jeane a taste of Bhutan’s quirky side. They visited the School of Arts and Crafts, where students learn traditional Bhutanese painting and sculpture techniques. Craig, ever the curious traveler, couldn’t resist trying his hand at painting a small thangka, though he quickly realized that mastering this art form would take more than a quick lesson.

The Road to Punakha > Stunning Scenery and Sacred Sites

Leaving Thimphu, Craig and Jeane embarked on a journey to Punakha, a town famous for its majestic dzong and scenic beauty. The drive took them over the Dochu La Pass, where 108 chortens (stupas) stand as a memorial to Bhutanese soldiers. From the pass, they enjoyed panoramic views of the Himalayas, with snow-capped peaks stretching as far as the eye could see. It was a photographer’s dream, and Craig made sure to capture the moment with his camera.

Punakha was a welcome change of pace, with its warmer climate and lush landscapes. The highlight of their visit was the Punakha Dzong, arguably the most beautiful fortress in Bhutan. Situated at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, the dzong’s white walls and red roofs reflected in the clear blue water made for a postcard-perfect scene. Craig and Jeane explored the dzong’s inner courtyards and temples, learning about its role as the winter residence of the monastic body and its historical significance as the site of Bhutan’s first national assembly.

Their time in Punakha also included a hike to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a relatively new temple built by the Queen Mother. The hike, though steep at times, rewarded them with stunning views of the Punakha Valley. As they reached the top, Craig couldn’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment, knowing that this was a part of Bhutan that few travelers get to see.

Bumthang Valley > The Spiritual Heartland of Bhutan

The next leg of Craig and Jeane’s Bhutan travel experience took them to the Bumthang Valley, often considered the spiritual heartland of the country. This region is home to some of Bhutan’s most sacred temples and monasteries, and it was here that Craig and Jeane attended the Jambay Lhakhang Drup Festival. This vibrant event, filled with traditional mask dances and rituals, offered a rare insight into Bhutanese spirituality and community life.

At the festival, Craig and Jeane were struck by the colorful costumes worn by the dancers, who represented deities, demons, and animals from Bhutanese mythology. The dances, which are believed to bless onlookers and ward off evil spirits, were mesmerizing. Jeane, always curious about local customs, asked their guide Sonam about the significance of each dance, learning about the deep spiritual meaning behind the elaborate performances.

Their time in the Bumthang Valley wasn’t just about festivals. Craig and Jeane also visited Tamshing Lhakhang, a 16th-century temple known for its ancient murals, and Kurje Lhakhang, where they saw the sacred rock with the body imprint of Guru Rinpoche, the revered figure who brought Buddhism to Bhutan. These experiences added layers of understanding to their journey, as they connected with the spiritual essence of Bhutan.

The Ultimate Bhutan Travel Experience > Hiking to Tiger’s Nest Monastery

No Bhutan travel story would be complete without a visit to Taktsang Monastery, better known as Tiger’s Nest. Perched precariously on a cliffside, 3,000 feet above the Paro Valley, this iconic monastery is one of Bhutan’s most revered religious sites. For Craig and Jeane, the hike to Tiger’s Nest was the culmination of their journey, offering a physical and spiritual challenge that would stay with them long after they returned home.

The hike began with a ride on horseback, which took them through pine forests and up the steep trail to a vantage point where the monastery first came into view. The sight of Tiger’s Nest clinging to the sheer rock face left them awestruck, and they paused to take in the breathtaking panorama. From there, it was a series of 700 steps—half descending, half ascending—before they reached the monastery itself.

Inside, they explored the sacred temples, each one filled with statues, murals, and offerings. Their guide Sonam shared the legend of Guru Rinpoche, who is said to have flown to this spot on the back of a tigress, bringing Buddhism to Bhutan. The story, combined with the serene atmosphere of the monastery, made for a deeply moving experience.

As they descended the trail, Craig and Jeane reflected on their journey. The hike to Tiger’s Nest was challenging, but it had been worth every step. It was a fitting end to their Bhutan travel experience, encapsulating the physical beauty, spiritual depth, and cultural richness of this remarkable country.

Bhutan Travel Today > What’s Changed Since 2012?

Since Craig and Jeane’s visit in 2012, Bhutan has continued to evolve, both in terms of its infrastructure and tourism policies. However, the essence of a Bhutan travel experience remains largely unchanged—this is still a place where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony, and where the pursuit of happiness is taken seriously.

1. Tourism Policy Updates:

• Sustainable Development Fee: One significant change is the increase in the Sustainable Development Fee (SDF), which now stands at $200 per person per day (with 50% discount, its $100 today). This fee, in addition to the daily tariff, ensures that tourism continues to benefit Bhutan’s economy and supports initiatives in education, healthcare, and environmental conservation.
• Diverse Travel Experiences: Today, travelers to Bhutan have more options than ever before. Whether you’re interested in trekking through remote mountain regions, immersing yourself in Bhutanese spirituality, or indulging in luxury at one of the country’s high-end resorts, there’s a Bhutan travel experience tailored to your interests.

2. Infrastructure Improvements:

• Roads and Connectivity: The roads that Craig and Jeane traveled have been further developed, making it easier and faster to move between destinations. Additionally, digital connectivity has improved, with 4G networks now available in many areas. While this makes it easier to stay connected, it also means that Bhutan is gradually integrating more into the global digital landscape.
• Eco-Friendly Accommodations: With an increasing focus on sustainability, many new hotels and lodges in Bhutan are designed with eco-friendly practices in mind. Travelers can now choose from a range of accommodations that not only offer comfort but also minimize environmental impact.

3. Cultural Preservation:

• Continued Commitment: Bhutan remains deeply committed to preserving its cultural heritage. Festivals like the one Craig and Jeane attended in Bumthang continue to thrive, and efforts to maintain traditional arts and crafts are ongoing. However, the influx of tourism has brought about subtle changes, and there is an ongoing dialogue within Bhutan about how to balance cultural preservation with modernization.

Planning Your Own Bhutan Travel Experience

If Craig and Jeane’s 2012 adventure has inspired you to plan your own Bhutan travel experience, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, be prepared for a journey that is as much about inner exploration as it is about outer discovery. Bhutan’s landscapes are stunning, but it’s the country’s spiritual and cultural richness that leaves a lasting impression.

When planning your trip, consider the time of year. Spring and autumn are the most popular seasons, offering pleasant weather and the chance to attend one of Bhutan’s many festivals. However, winter and summer can also be rewarding, with fewer tourists and unique seasonal experiences.

As you prepare for your Bhutan adventure, remember that this is a place where time seems to move a little slower. Embrace the pace, take the time to connect with the people and the land, and let yourself be immersed in the magic of Bhutan. Whether you’re hiking to Tiger’s Nest, exploring ancient dzongs, or simply enjoying a quiet moment in a remote valley, Bhutan offers a travel experience like no other.

Final Thoughts

Craig and Jeane’s Bhutan travel story is one of discovery, reflection, and deep connection with a place that is unlike anywhere else in the world. Their journey through the Last Shangri-La was filled with moments of awe, from the dramatic landscapes to the rich cultural traditions that define Bhutan.

As you plan your own Bhutan travel experience, take inspiration from Craig and Jeane’s adventure. Be open to the unexpected, embrace the slower pace of life, and allow yourself to be transformed by the beauty and serenity of Bhutan. In a world that is constantly rushing forward, Bhutan offers a rare opportunity to step back, breathe deeply, and rediscover what truly matters.

So pack your bags, book your trip, and get ready to write your own Bhutan travel story—one that you’ll cherish for years to come. The Land of the Thunder Dragon awaits, ready to share its secrets with those who are willing to listen.